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John Lobb is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.

Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.

Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.

In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.

The range combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in different shades and textures.

Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in the British footwear industry.

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